Finance

C-E-Oh no…

Monday, 19 April, 2010

I am a 24-year-old woman from one of the most rural places East of the Mississippi, trying to make my way in one of the most unforgiving professions at one of the most difficult times in recent history. I, who was named Miss Peach by the opposing basketball teams in high school because I always helped their players up, displaying an amount of wisdom appropriate to my years, decided to specialize in business reporting. I now work in one of the most cutthroat fields, at one of the fastest, most competitive news organizations and for one of the most rapid-fire, go-with-your-gut, take-no-prisoners teams.

In short, I’m a fish so far out of water, I’ve evolved.

It is in this atmosphere that I had a small revelation. (A small one, proportionate to the amount of my brain cells that fire on all cylinders. Some have even taken to firing on trapezoids. Or each other.) The revelation came after I read a press release that detailed a CEO’s salary. It was impressive. I glumly remarked to my team, “Man, I should have been a CEO.” Someone responded, “I bet you will be.”

Smoothly sidling past the idea that someone fewer than five years out of college should be lamenting her lost career choices, I was surprised by the confidence shown by my coworker. He thought I had the potential to be in charge of a whole company.

And that’s when I realized that’s exactly what I want to do. (Along with the bakery and humor columns and small-town tour playing ragtime piano, of course.) I want to be in charge of something.

The concept of building a career is fairly new to me and that’s not just because I’ve never done it before. I’ve existed at my current job for exactly one year tomorrow, and done it happily (enough) because I worked on being the best headliner I could. Now that I’ve decided I want to lead… something… I have to make some decisions based on their effect on my future. I don’t think I have the Ă©clat (or the estomago, to make this a three-language sentence) to really play that game, but it’s something to bear in mind.

Roger Altman, former deputy Treasury secretary and chairman of Evercore Partners said, “Hyper-competitiveness is not an unalloyed good.” I agree with him. (And it’s not an un-alkali-ed good either.) My style of management — which orbits around teamness to the utmost — clangs a little against the iron bars of today’s capitalist competition. I vote in favor of loyalty, honesty, fairness, transparency. It hurts my feelings when coworkers have goals like individual success or personal wealth on higher pedestals.

But perhaps these antiquated notions of being a team are just other items to add to my list of ways I’m dissimilar from my peers. And maybe that’s why I’d make great management.

Bond Traders Lament Possible Demise of Early Closes

Sunday, 3 January, 2010

This story was published by Bloomberg News on January 30, 2009. Molly interned for Bloomberg News from June to August in 2008 and from January to April in 2009. She covered the commodity markets, livestock derivatives, government bonds and foreign exchange. Molly was hired to the speed desk in March 2009. This is one of her favorite stories. It appeared on TOPWW, Bloomberg’s worldwide front page.

Bond Traders Lament Possible Demise of Early Closes
2009-01-30 19:58:11.180 GMT

Jan. 30 (Bloomberg) — Bond traders, facing the threat of
abrupt firings, vanishing bonuses and volatile markets as the
U.S. economy weakens, are lamenting the possible demise of the
tradition of leaving early the day before holidays.

About 1,400 people have signed an online petition
protesting the cancellation of so-called early closes on Dec.
26. and Jan. 2. More than 30 people signed last week, even
though the petition was for the recent Christmas holidays. An
introduction says, “During 2008, there were only two words to
look forward to in fixed income. They were ‘early close.’ The
emotional damage incurred by this late change won’t have a
financial match. Change it back. Make us feel like somebody
cares about us.”

The Treasury Department asked the Securities Industry and
Financial Market Association, the main trade group for bond
dealers and investors, to reduce the number of days traders
leave at 2 p.m. instead of 4 p.m., according to Reuters. SIFMA
has 12 early closes scheduled for 2009. Stock and derivative
traders do not officially leave early before holidays.

“We’ve had this for so long, I don’t see the benefit in
changing it now,” said Frank Randazza, vice president of sales
at Stifel Nicolaus & Co. in Pittsburgh. “Go on a non-holiday
weekend at two o’clock and tell me how much activity you’re
seeing anyway.”

Bonus Backlash

SIFMA will announce any changes to the calendar “in due
course,” said Washington-based spokesman Travis Larson. SIFMA
dropped its early close recommendations for Dec. 26 and Jan. 2
to be in harmony with the futures market.

Jenni Engebretsen, a spokeswoman for the Treasury in
Washington, declined to comment.

The possible ending of the tradition comes as Wall Street
suffers from a backlash over compensation as governments
worldwide bail out financial institutions. Banks handed out
$18.4 billion in bonuses in 2008, the sixth-largest pool at New
York City financial companies, State Comptroller Thomas DiNapoli
said yesterday. President Barack Obama called the bonuses
“shameful,” while Senator Banking Committee Chairman
Christopher Dodd of Connecticut vowed to use “every possible
legal means to get the money back.”

“Wall Street is reeling right now,” said Bruce Foerster,
president of South Beach Capital Markets in Miami. “Congress is
in the early stages of remaking the industry, and these morons
are whining about two hours a couple times a year? They’re out
of touch with reality.”

‘Making a Statement’

Treasury raised the issue because of the additional amount
of debt needed to be auctioned to fund the deficit, traders
said. The government will announce on Feb. 4 how much it will
sell in 3-, 10-, and 30-year Treasuries the following week.
Goldman Sachs Group Inc., one of the 17 primary dealers that are
required to bid at the auctions, estimates the U.S. will likely
borrow a record $2.5 trillion this fiscal year ending Sept. 30,
almost triple the $892 billion in notes and bonds sold in fiscal
2008.

“They’re talking about auctions being the reason,”
Randazza said, who has worked in the bond market for 20 years.
“We never have auctions on Fridays. The early close is usually
a Friday. It doesn’t make sense. The Treasury is saying they’re
going to monitor the markets more than they ever did, and that’s
what this is about. It’s about making a statement after all the
disasters in the fixed-income market.”

Job Losses

Banks and financial firms have fired 265,000 people since
the collapse of the subprime mortgage market triggered the
financial crisis. Bear Stearns Cos. and Lehman Brothers Holdings
Inc. failed, while Merrill Lynch & Co. was taken over by Bank of
America Corp. Goldman Sachs and Morgan Stanley converted into
bank holding companies. Employment in New York City’s securities
industry fell to 168,600 in December 2008 from 187,800 in
October 2007, a decline of 19,200 jobs, or 10.2 percent,
DiNapoli’s report found.

The potential change in the holiday schedule will not
affect most traders’ hours, according to Raymond Remy, head of
fixed income at primary dealer Daiwa Securities America Inc. in
New York and a 26-year trader. He said his staff will probably
finish working when the futures markets in Chicago close.

“Our take here is ‘whatever,” he said.

The Misleading Leading Economic Indicators

Sunday, 20 December, 2009

This story is unpublished. It was written for a class while Molly was attending Northwestern’s Medill School of Journalism.

Business reporters like to talk about things called leading economic indicators. That’s because they allow us to write flashy headlines like this one from MarketWatch on May 1: “US weekly initial jobless claims surge 35000 to 380000.”

There are 345,000 more Americans unemployed than last week? Batten down the hatches! The whole nation’s going to be unemployed by mid-summer. Exciting stuff. Big news.

But is it really?

The leading economic indicators, such as initial jobless claims, show the country’s economic activity. They serve two purposes – tracking the history of the economy and allowing that data to be analyzed for trends. They’re released by the government on a regular basis and are ideal for scholars, economists and headline writers. Essentially, they take the economy’s temperature and tell experts if it’s healthy. They can also serve as a kind of alarm: If the index numbers swing downward, a recession may be around the corner.

“What the index of leading economic indicators is designed to do is predict what’s going to happen to the economy six to nine months out, but that’s mainly for policy purposes,” said Allen Sanderson, senior lecturer in the economics department of the University of Chicago.

The problem is that indicator figures are often more volatile than the economy itself because they revolve around quickly changing numbers like interest rates or retail sales.

So should typical Americans really base their economic decisions on these reports? Does up-to-date economic information make things seem worse than they actually are?

Are the leading economic indicators
 misleading?

“I’ve been somewhat amused, bemused or bewildered by all the stories about foreclosures and defaults. One would get the impression from the headlines that half the people in the U.S. have lost their homes, but it’s just not true,” Sanderson said. “We say, ‘Well, gee home ownership rates dropped.’ Yes, it dropped from 69 percent to 68 percent, but it didn’t drop from 69 percent to 29 percent. These are really very small kinds of movements.”

Why are the indicators so fickle? They’re tied up with elements of the economy that move rapidly which lends a kind of amorphous quality to the reports. The same figure can be used to support differing opinions of the economy. One’s philosophy and scope of view (short-term or long-term) determines one’s resulting analysis.

If you’re looking for something negative, you can probably find it, no matter what state the economy’s in.

“There’s a lot of noise, but there’s also a lot of built-in stability” in the economy Sanderson said. “We’re not talking about some minor little fiefdom somewhere, we’re talking about a $13 or $14 trillion economy, and a lot of things in that economy are going to be very sluggish.”

Just as many investment experts warn people away from trading based on intraday stock fluctuations, Sanderson suggests zooming out. Historical trends and digging into real numbers – instead of percent change – can help keep things in perspective.

“I think the best thing to do in these types of situations is to take the Christian Science approach,” Sanderson said. “If the body is reasonably healthy, take two aspirin and go to bed.”

Miracles Is Possible

Sunday, 20 December, 2009

This story is unpublished. It was written for a class while Molly was attending Northwestern’s Medill School of Journalism.

There is a gym on the northwest side of Chicago. In it, there are 15 women throwing sticky, cantaloupe-sized balls at each other.

There is a coach, a Croatian. He broods and occasionally yells so loudly and with such vim that the gym’s echoes obscure his heavy accent, and nothing is decipherable.

There is a competition in Mexico City.

After practice there are requests for 13 bags of ice, roughly one per player.

There is – this is – handball.

Ball
Handball

Dave Gascon travels with the USA Women’s National Handball Team. His daughter, Sarah, is a player. Gascon, who spent 32 years with the Los Angeles Police Department and retired as its Assistant Chief of Police in 2002, is standing on the sideline with me and Matt Specht, the head of athletic facilities for Northeastern Illinois University. We are watching would-be Olympians practice in a borrowed gym at 10 p.m. on a Tuesday night.

The two men talk handball. They speak rapidly, rolling over the ends of each other’s sentences and interrupting, each eager to share their stories and their grievance over handball’s exclusion from popular American sports, each eager to explain the merits of the game and why everyone should love it as much as they do.

They are shooting the shit.

“If you see it in person, you’ve got to fall in love with it,” Gascon says. “It’s shocking it’s not an American sport, it has everything we love in it.”

“A lot of scoring–” Specht interrupts.

“Right.”

“Contact, running, strategy–”

“Right. Hand-eye coordination.”

“It’s superb,” Specht finishes.

Both men fold their arms. I continue taking notes and try not to get hit by any whizzing balls.

Team handball is a hybrid of soccer and basketball that’s been around about as long as either. It is the third most popular sport in Europe, according to most accounts.

It’s like ice hockey, one player explains. A coach tells me it resembles rugby. Gascon says to visualize it as water polo on dry land.

The floor is about the size of a basketball court. The ball is smaller than a soccer ball and coated in a thin layer of sticky wax. (During my first practice, I see the tin of wax on the sideline and dunk a few fingers in. It feels like thick honey and smells like the bottom of a sneaker. And a little like pine. It is only later that I realize I am unable to release my grip on my pen and must shamefacedly explain this to everyone who tries to shake my hand.)

There are small soccer-style goals on each end, with a goalie. Six players form offenses and defenses around the perimeter of the goal. They are similar to basketball – they can be in a man-to-man or zone defense, for example.

The biggest difference between handball and other sports is contact, what Sarah Gascon says is the best part of the game. A player can pick up another player and physically move her around – without the other player’s willing consent. It’s a rough sport. Watching the scrum, the feeding frenzy, I swear there is an overabundance of elbows and knees. Slaps sound across the gym.

I watch as a girl propels herself into the air for a shot. (Most scoring attempts are jump shots – it allows for height over defenders and gives attackers the ability to penetrate the goalie’s area without using their feet, which is illegal.) As she falls, she releases the ball with amazing ferocity and strength. I see her body, now flying parallel to the ground, and watch as she lands on another girl. Both tumble to the floor.

Dave Gascon catches me cringe and laughs.

There is another group in the gym tonight. It is the Chicago Inter Handball Club, run in part by an aging Belarusian named Felix Murokh. He stands against the mats at the half-court line, watching his own men’s and women’s groups practice and occasionally snorting in the direction of the national team.

Murokh, 61, started playing handball in the 1960s, when he represented Belarus in their pro league. He stopped playing in 1972 and emigrated to the United States in 1979. Now he owns a remodeling company in Skokie. He tells me to watch for “black vans, nice looking, with Mr. Floor on the side.” He pronounces it “meese-torr florr.”

Years ago, Murokh was asked to consider coaching the national team. He turned the job down.

“[In America] it’s amateur sport,” he says emphatically. “No money! I came here, I have to feed my family. So I say to them, ‘I have to put this aside for now.’”

Three years ago, Murokh joined the Inter Handball Club as a coach and created the now-thriving women’s team.

Where the national team players look short and quick, Murokh’s women are long and wiry. They look older. As two players jog by in sweats, he tells me they are both in their 40s. One had three surgeries last year to replace her knee. The other was on the Yugoslavian national team. They arrived late to practice and are running laps to warm up.

“You have to see how they play,” Murokh says. “They play so good, so smart.” He waves his hands in front of him, as if to dismiss the gloomy idea that their professional handball days – and his – are well over.

In an effort to cheer him, I tell Murokh about my adventure getting to the gym. I had to take two buses to get to the right part of town, I explain. When I finally set foot on the sidewalk, it was 9 p.m., cold and dark, I say. I had no idea where to go next. Walking ahead of me was a man with a gym bag. So I did what any reporter would and asked hopefully if the man was there for handball. Turns out he was. Turns out he could help me find my way. Turns out he used to play for Poland. (It later became apparent how lucky I’d been. The court the teams use is tucked far away in the building’s inside pocket, like a dirty hanky. I would never have found it alone.)

After Murokh’s smile recedes, I ask how many non-U.S.-born people play in the Chicago league. Murokh says about 18 countries are represented on his men’s and women’s teams. He points at players as they zoom by or when they elevate for a shot.

“This gentleman, Pavel, he used to play for Poland. That young guy used to play for Egypt. This guy used to play for Romania
.This tall girl with light hair. She was playing for Latvia. In our tournament, she was the best scorer. You have to see when she plays. It’s like somebody playing beautiful violin. She knows every move, she does everything right.”

The players on Murokh’s team practice twice a week. Occasionally, there will be a tournament they can compete in, but club teams in America are rare. They’re so hard to find that Murokh says he’s had players come from Milwaukee, St. Louis and Detroit just to practice with the team.

Though the national team borrows the gym Murokh reserves for his players, there is a little tension between the groups. The 20 women on Murokh’s team have played the national team two years in a row and won both times.

“You’re looking at a team that is U.S. champions of 2007,” he says.

There was no national championship this year because “of lack of funding,” but in an unofficial match, the Chicago team won.

“We beat national team big time, two times!” Murokh says. “We have really, really good players here. That’s why these girls love to play against us.”

The two 40-year-old women have finished warming up. They peel off sweatpants and thick hoodies. One readjusts her ponytail, and they begin running drills with the rest of the team. They are thin, toned, sinewy. Intense. They begin to work with a fierce joy. The one with the knee brace takes a shot. The force of the ball is so strong the goal is moved back a few inches and into the gym wall. The goalie giggles dizzily, and the two older women high five.

The sound, POW, still ringing in the gym, punctuates their fire.

Murokh’s team may have won because it has seasoned ex-professional athletes at its core. The national team’s players are all students of other sports: baseball, volleyball, softball, soccer. They have fewer years of experience, even in their own sports. But it’s more likely that the Chicago league won because they play twice a week with the same group of people.
The national team – the group that would represent the United States in the Olympics, should they qualify – will be lucky if the players reunite once a month over the next four years.

The team is in Chicago to practice for a competition in Mexico City. The tournament is a qualifier for the Pan-American games. A win at the Pan-Ams automatically qualifies a team for the Olympics. The only other way to earn a spot in the Olympics is by medaling at the world championships.

The team has practiced five days for this important competition. In those days, all of which were spent in Chicago, piggybacking on Murokh’s rental of the Northeastern gym, the players have had about 10 practices.
It is the first time some of them have met.

The women live in different cities. Two of them play handball in France. Most don’t have access to a club team, so they can’t practice on their own. If the team does not perform well at the Pan-Am qualifier, the next scheduled time the women can compete together is in two years. If they qualify, the Pan-Am championship is in June.

No level playing field, here, when European teams practice year-round and compete in pro leagues as popular and competitive as our NBA or NFL. There, being a handball player is a career choice; here it’s a favor to a former coach or a funny story to tell your friends.

Marko Brezic

Marko Brezic

Marko Brezic, the Croatian coach, isn’t having much fun. It’s the last practice before the team leaves for Mexico City, where there might be an hour of court time each day
if they’re lucky.

The girls are tired. They make mistakes they wouldn’t have made five days ago. Brezic, 45, sits at the half-court line with his legs stretched out, leaning back on his hands. He is smoldering, emitting an anxiety that lingers like a black cloud.

“It was a good practice, but the girls are tired,” he says. “You can feel that. Not just from this morning. Because we started Friday, now it’s Tuesday. That’s five days. Five days of almost 10 practices.
“To be honest, if we do something, that will be a true miracle. Me and [assistant coach Edina Batar] have five days to prepare them. You can’t prepare anyone in five days.”

Brezic began playing handball in 1988, when he was 15. He started coaching soon thereafter. He is the head of the Men’s Western Region team in Salt Lake City as well as the coach of this national team.

“What brought you to the U.S.?” I ask.

“Money. Just kidding.”

“What do you like about handball?” I say, hoping for a little more honesty.

“Girls,” he says. “Just kidding.”

I figure Brezic is wary because I’m a reporter. I figure he’s worried about the upcoming match. Maybe it’s a Croatian thing; maybe I’m misinterpreting his guardedness. Later, Felix Murokh explains what might be going on.

“Their problems [are a] lack of coaching and lack of money and management. They brought gentleman from Croatia who is hardly speaking English, and the girls couldn’t understand what he trying to say. It is a problem.”

I do not mention that Murokh’s own speech might set Roget and Webster back a bit, but I am able to grasp the point. I ask him to tell me more.

He doesn’t think Brezic is a bad coach. Murokh’s main criticism is that the team needs more money so they can be together more and the women can learn more about the sport.

He does criticize how Brezic is drilling a goalie, Erika Woodbury, a rookie used to guarding soccer goals. Woodbury is standing with her face to the inside of the net. At a signal, she turns and must react to an immediate shot coming from an unknown direction. I am surprised and impressed when she deflects most of the attacks.

Murokh waves his hand in frustration, and his lips thin into a small, straight line.

“They could be doing that any time. The goalie can do that with one other person whenever she want. He should be teaching her how to play handball.”

He explains that her stance and center of gravity is too low. Woodbury is standing with knees bent, feet wide and arms spread. She looks large in the goal. Murokh explains that for handball, a goalie should remain upright and in tight, so she can dart out with a hand or foot as quickly as possible. If the center of gravity is spread out – like Woodbury’s feet – she has to bring it back in before she can thrust at the ball. If she begins at the center point, less time and energy are needed to react.

“They call me and say ‘Do you want to be his assistant?’ I say, ‘You have to be kidding me.’” Murokh explains. “He is a temporary. This tournament gone and he is out. I said let them talk to me after that.”

Murokh’s criticisms are not intended to harm. His feelings are understandable, maybe what any older coach would feel about a younger one with a higher-ranking job. I am surprised later when, talking about the slight chance of the national team winning in Mexico, Brezic echoes the same sentiment.

“This goalie, Erika, she is probably ten days into handball. Ten days. I just want to tell you what kind of players we have. They are not those who play and train handball their whole life. We need to improvise lots of things. If we do that, that be maybe more than miracle. No one expects, except us, that we can do it.

“Probably I am the only freak who is willing to take that risk. Because my head is on plate. If I fail, I will go home,” he says. “That is the business of being a coach. It is always depending on winning or losing.”

Stretching

Edina Batar is the assistant coach of the national team. She played in Hungary’s pro league before moving to the United States. Batar was a member of the U.S. national team until an injury ended her career last year.

Now, she rarely stays on the sidelines with Brezic and Dave Gascon. Instead, she works with the players, tossing them balls, participating in drills and offering advice. During a weave passing drill, a player misses a catch. The next throw would have gone to Sarah Gascon. Instead of jogging off the court like everyone else, she keeps running towards the goal and shouts, “Edina!” In less time than it takes to fill a lung with air, Batar tosses her the ball she was holding. The shot goes in.

The moment was extraordinary. It showed the primary characteristics of both women – Gascon never quits on a play, either in drills or competition, and Batar occupies a space somewhere between participant and observer. It is an unhappy space. A career ended is part of a life ended.

And yet, it is Batar, never a goalie, who helps 22-year-old Woodbury acclimate to handball. She assists in the reaction drill Murokh criticized and often stays behind the net, talking to Woodbury as the other players wax and wane up the court like tides.

“I’ve played soccer all my life,” Woodbury says to me later. “I’d never heard of handball a month ago.”

The national team was looking for a goalie and Woodbury’s soccer coach knew some people in the handball league. After two quick practice sessions with Brezic in Salt Lake City, Woodbury was invited to come on the Mexico City trip. It was she who had the too-low stance.

“My instincts are definitely more towards soccer,” Woodbury says. “It’s the same general idea – you have to keep the ball out of the goal – but the technique is a lot different. How you’re supposed to move. There’s a lot more lunging and reaching in handball, whereas in soccer I’d be diving.

“I found myself diving onto the floor a few times, which was quite painful. That’s what my instincts told me to do. I tried not to do it too much but it happened quite a few times, and I was pretty bruised because of it.”

Woodbury had never met any of her teammates before the Chicago practices began. She didn’t know, for example, Megan Ballard.

Ballard, 24, is a former point guard and a Georgia native. She’s a pretty black woman with a headband and bouncy curls, and she’s most often seen doing pushups on the sideline. The rest of her teammates stop for water or chat, but she goes nose to the floor and up again. During another break in the practice, she jogs in place.

When the Olympics were in Atlanta, she tells me, the city’s middle schools started a junior development program for handball, which is when she was introduced to the game. After she graduated college, a former coach called her and asked if she’d consider moving to France. Ballard’s been playing handball there for two years.

“I play for the city of Toulouse,” she says. “It’s kind of like playing for the Hawks or the Celtics. I’m considered semi-pro. I’m still a student over there, but I do get a salary.”

She laughs when I ask about the pushups.

“My coach in Toulouse, if we stop at all in practice then everyone has to get down and do pushups,” she says. “In the game of handball, you never stop. It’s 30 minutes of non-stop action. And so you never have a time when you’re just standing there, so he makes us always be in some kind of movement.”

She pauses to search for English words. “And when I miss shots that I shouldn’t miss, it’s just kind of 
 self-discipline.”

Ballard hasn’t been home in a year. It is interesting that she now plays on a team with Farida Abouzeida, who is spending time away from her family for the first time ever.

Abouzeida is a 17-year-old Egyptian. She likes to shoot from the outside, farther away from the goal than most of her American teammates. She was born in the U.S. while her father attended college here. When she was 5, the family moved back to Egypt, where they remained until three months ago.

“My memory of America is kind of vague because I was 5,” she says. “My dad just wanted to give me a chance to see what it’s like here and then I would decide if I wanted to live here or go back to Egypt. Just for more experience, I guess.”

After moving to Alabama and enrolling in a community college, Abouzeida, a life-long handball player, tried out for the national team. She was accepted. The practices in Chicago and the week-long trip to Mexico will be her first experiences traveling alone in a new country. She says she felt comfortable going alone, but her parents were nervous.

“They were very, very worried. I’m their little daughter,” she laughs. “I’m still their little baby to them. I’m 17. I’m the youngest on the team. I’m away. And my mom was really upset because she wanted to come. My mom’s a handball fan, a really big one.”

Abouzeida estimates handball is the second most popular sport in Egypt after soccer. She’s been playing since the family moved there. She says the experience of handball with Americans is different from Egyptians.

“The U.S. team is great, they’re just not really used to the game,” she says. “We’re not a bad team, we just need to play with each other more to get some more chemistry.

“[The competition] comes from countries where they already know the game. Handball isn’t exactly popular here yet. Most of the people on the USA team they haven’t played handball so long, but the other teams grew up knowing what the game is and playing handball
. We met for a week before we went to the tournament. If we were given more time we definitely would have done some things different.”

Abouzeida plans to enroll at Auburn University in the fall. She hopes to have a career in the U.S. with handball, but says she knows she might have to move back to Egypt to play professionally.

Farida Abouzeida

I discovered handball during the August heat of the summer Olympics. The games aired during the mid-afternoon, when news trickled the slowest and I was at my desk with a serious case of the doldrums.
One glance at the overhead television, and I couldn’t peel my eyes from the screen. Here were women battling, throwing elbows, knocking knees, palming the ball, making fast breaks, dribbling, blocking, scraping, scrapping. All of it was there. Incredible athletes playing with such ferocity and velocity– all in a game I’d never seen before.

Dave Gascon also discovered handball during the Olympics.

“I’d seen it in many Olympic games before,” he said. “Being a little older, I remember from years and years ago. It’s an interesting sport to watch, but I never played it as a kid. We didn’t even have it here and that’s unfortunate.”

Gascon was a lieutenant in the LAPD in 1984, when the Olympics came to Los Angeles. He worked the event, but says he didn’t have the chance to see any live handball.

“I think that’s what inspires a lot of these players,” he says, nudging me to retrieve a loose ball. After I toss it to his waiting daughter, he continues. “They know it’s an Olympic sport and they’d really like to see the United States qualify a team. We haven’t qualified a team in a long time.”

Not since 1996. In fact, the U.S. women’s handball team has been trying to qualify for the Olympics since the early 1970s. Their first and best appearance was in 1984, at the same games Gascon was working. The team placed fourth. After four Olympic appearances and five world championship tries, the United States has yet to medal in either competition.

Handball faces a tough economic situation here. The United States Team Handball Federation was the governing body until 2006, when it was dissolved due to lack of funding. In 2008, Dieter Esch, the co-owner of modeling agency Wilhelmina, underwrote a bid to restart the program. The National Governing Body (NGB) is now known as USA Team Handball. He moved the operation to Salt Lake City and got rid of the residency program, which helped national team players relocate so they could practice together more often.

The NGB is still looking to fill its five regional director positions, a bad sign because one aspect of a director’s job is to encourage grass roots programs and to locate potential players. Without active promotion, the sport cannot grow. Brezic serves as the regional director for the west coast and for this he is paid $2,000 a month. Without more money for the regional directors, the number of applicants and their influence cannot grow.

“It’s a shame [handball is] not popular in America yet,” Ballard says. “It’s a cross-over and an inclusion of all sports, whether it’s foot control, eye-hand coordination, speed. It’s a non-stop game. It’s fast-paced. It’s a high-scoring game. It’s great.”

She – along with both Gascons, Specht and Murokh – have faith that the sport will catch on in the United States.

“Over 180 countries play handball. It’s one of the most popular games in the world,” Murokh says. “You cannot create adult team without kids team. We have to start from the bottom. At least if we will start in universities, then maybe we will have something in the future.

“We have plenty people to create good coaching. But no programs. I am coming to schools, to high schools. Nobody want to talk to me. I say, ‘I’m not doing this for money! I do this because I love the game. I want to see United States team to have success.’ Nothing happen.”

Murokh is negotiating – with Specht’s help – to create a club handball team at Northeastern. He says students have been receptive. With luck, they’ll have a team practicing next fall.
Brezic watches the team practice.

Brezic watches the team practice.

The last practice before Mexico City is over. The girls add layers of clothing and settle into a seated semi-circle, facing Brezic, Batar and Dave Gascon. Batar doesn’t say any words, Brezic says very few, and then Gascon begins. He talks about airport logistics, how everyone will return to the hotel tonight, asks if there are any new aches and pains acquired from this day’s hard work.

One girl calls out, “Chief, does your cell phone work in Mexico?”

“I don’t know if it’s going to work in Mexico,” Gascon replies. “If it does, it’s probably $20 a minute or something like that. If there’s an emergency, we’ll do whatever it takes. Don’t worry about the cost.”

Later, as the women pack the extra balls and sop up the streams of water running down their legs as ice packs melt, Gascon makes another announcement.

“My credit card from the Federation is still not working. I don’t know if it’s going to be working tomorrow, but we’re in luck because both my credit cards are working. So I’ll be taking some cash and we’ll convert it and make sure you guys have some spending money.”

There are noises of surprise and then choruses of “Thank you, Chief.”

“There’s only one thing I require of you,” Gascon prompts, as the girls come in for their last huddle in the U.S.

“WIN!”

I watch the team file from the gym. Some of them say goodbye to me, others focus on getting back to their warm hotel and a hot shower. It’s their second practice of the day, the last of the week. They’re tired. Excited to travel. Hopeful and doubtful all at once.

Brezic and team
As he passes me, one of the last to leave the gym, I wish Brezic luck in Mexico City. He shrugs, leans over and says, “The ball is round and there is sixty minutes of playing. Miracles is possible.”

NOTE: The USA team lost every game it played in Mexico City.

There are no immediate plans for another practice or competition, though there is still a chance the team could qualify for the Olympics.

Hair Fairies: The Price of Lice

Sunday, 20 December, 2009

This story is unpublished. It was written for a class while Molly was attending Northwestern’s Medill School of Journalism.

It is Halloween morning, and Kelly Kraft is dressed as a louse.

I, a reporter, am not dressed as anything (though I am dressed). I am standing on the stoop of Hair Fairies in Lincoln Park, and I have just realized my mouth is hanging open.

Kraft, 30, is the manager of Hair Fairies, a salon that manually removes head lice. As she guides me inside, I admire her brown boots, all the rage this fall, and a dress that might have looked nicer without the extra sets of arms pinned to it.

I am startled to discover another employee masquerading as a nit, with a white trash-bag body and aluminum foil “glue” to bind herself to a hair on some enormous unseen head. I am not sure if I should shake hands.

“It’s going to be a zoo today,” Kraft says happily. “We’ve got a group of five already in here.”

Hair Fairies Inc. is a privately held company, owned by Maria Botham.

After reading an article that named head lice as the top reason why children miss school, Botham, 38, spent two years working in physicians’ offices and researching lice shampoos. The first Hair Fairies salon opened in Los Angeles in 1999. The company has expanded into three other cities – New York, San Francisco and, in December 2008, Chicago.

“I wanted to have salons where we always place ourselves in the Beverly Hills of that city and make the salons really beautiful to break the stigma of head lice,” Botham says. “People think that it’s a problem with underserved communities, but really head lice don’t discriminate. We have every A-list celebrity go through our salons.”

The people I saw, aside from the bug and the nit, weren’t celebrities, but children. Surprisingly quiet children. All had a GameBoy, DVD player or other noise toy in their laps, and they sat calmly while Kraft and the five other Chicago employees combed through their hair.

Botham estimates the Chicago shop sees between 250 and 300 heads a week, and Kraft says they inspect at least 20 people a day. The process involves combing the hair when it’s dry, again when it’s wet, shampooing, applying an oil meant to prevent the lice from wanting to be on the hair and then blow-drying the client.

“I was a hair stylist for 11 years,” Kraft says. “I was doing high fashion! This is the whole other end of the spectrum and to be honest, it’s much more gratifying.”

Hair Fairies’ objective is to offer relief to parents who are too grossed out to do the work themselves and too stressed out to deal with their kids’ tears of shame. The Fairies, bearing brushes and tissues and toys, are there to do it for them.

“Most clients come in and they’ve already spent over $500 between dry cleaning, cleaning their homes, hair products, and they’ve missed a week and a half of school,” Botham says. “They are very distraught. They’re emotional, upset. They’re agitated. They’re usually exhausted.”

To be a Hair Fairy is to be a nanny, doctor and a therapist, one who can interact with children and adults. The Fairies soothe anguished parents – some of whom drop their children at the salon and speed away before anyone can see them.

They also explain and discuss the medical side of lice – like the fact that the bugs cannot fly, hop or jump. (Their ability to skip remains to be determined. It is thought unlikely.) They explain that the bugs go dormant when they’re exposed to extreme temperatures or if you hold your head under water. They explain that lice are asexual.

A Fairy would tell you that lice can only be transmitted through head-to-head contact and not through clothing or bedding. (Headbutt champions and Siamese twins: beware. Ladies of the night and hat models may breathe easy.)

Employees are trained for 90 days before they can start their Fairy duties. Kraft says she “had no less than six interviews” to land the job and Botham refers to a “three-inch thick manual” of conduct and information. Hair Fairies has roughly 60 employees between the four salons and Chicago will be hiring again next month.

A. Jae Matthews, 26, is a loud, cheery black man. He is a Hair Fairies employee, and today he’s wearing a sparkly black wig that makes him look rather like Rick James. Matthews was a promoter for a theater before he became a Fairy and tells me he dislikes insects.

“I don’t do well with bugs,” he says.

“Were you worried about that coming into this job?” I ask.

“I was apprehensive about a lot of aspects of this. It’s funny though, working here hasn’t helped me with bugs, but with people. I still have all my reservations about spiders, just not head lice or humans.”

Kraft says most clients take comfort in knowing that the salons are full of people who have lice, so everyone in the shop is tolerant. She suggests they feel a type of camaraderie. I almost suggest they form a street gang.

“People love that every other person in here has had lice or is not freaked out by lice,” she says. “The biggest thing is that parents aren’t educated on the subject, and they don’t have a clue how to make it better, and that’s their job as a parent. And so I get those mothers and fathers and then I get to give them the knowledge and calmness to feel like they’re in control again, all in an environment where they’re comfortable.”

The Hair Fairies shop has a wood-paneled floor with bright, overhead track lighting. Mirrors at each station are hemmed by thick wood frames carved to look as if the wood was woven. There is a waiting area in the front, filled with magazines like Cosmopolitan, Shape and Self.

“The salons are absolutely gorgeous,” Botham says. “They feel like mini spas!”

All the children are occupied with games or toys, and there’s a counter with snacks available for anyone who wants them. Occasionally a child – in a zombie-like trance, with eyes and thumbs still glued to whatever device he or she is holding – will stumble over and select a sweet. Everywhere there is the smell of toasting hair as clients are styled. It floats above the slight tang of Botham’s all-natural lice shampoo.

All the furniture is slick and cold to the touch. Most of the seating is wooden. As I look around, I realize the place – without the buzzing, happy Fairies – looks rather stiff and uncomfortable.

“The bugs can live for 24 to 48 hours and they need a fiber to travel, so everything is leather or vinyl or wood,” Kraft explains. “That’s so we’re not passing it back and forth through our environment.”

The dĂ©cor is not sterile, however. Perhaps it’s the glittered, brightly colored fairy art hanging between the mirrors. Could be the bustling workers or the happy (if technologically occupied) children. Or the moms who can snatch moments to themselves while their kids get colored gels slathered on their hair after a treatment.

Barbara Kizziah is one such mother. She is a 43-year-old blond who enters Hair Fairies clutching a Starbucks cup and a Chanel bag. Her pink cable-knit sweater has no pills, pulls or puckers. She is loud, tan and attaches herself to Lane, a bucktoothed nine-year-old getting green streaks.

“I didn’t find anything this time,” Kraft says.

“Yahoo!” Kizziah shouts, pumping her fists. It is their final visit in the Hair Fairies four-part treatment.

“She got it, we think, from her carpool,” Kizziah tells me, with one hand on my forearm. “My first thought was ‘Holy shit.’ I was like, ‘Oh my God, you’ve got to be kidding me.’”

Kizziah said she didn’t think she had the time to comb through Lane’s hair and wasn’t sure which products would be most effective. She admits to being “slightly panicked,” but feels she is making the best of a lousy (louse-y) situation.

“I just didn’t want to do it, and I didn’t feel like I’d do an effective job,” she says. “The cocktail conversation is not bad, though. Last weekend I was like, ‘O.K. people, lice – can you stand it?’”

Botham says the company is healthy. Kraft says the Chicago shop is always busy. (It’s nice to know there are enough lice in Chicago to keep six people occupied.) But the social status of the clientele brings up an important question – how much does all this cost?

The number for the price depends on the number of the lice. There is a one-hour minimum per person per visit, which totals $95. After that, it’s $23.75 for every additional 15 minutes. Kraft estimates most people pay about $380.

Upon hearing that, I was ready to jump, hop, fly and maybe skip to the conclusion that Hair Fairies was entirely a luxury and only available to the solidly wealthy, or as we call them in America, the upper middle class. Not exactly so.

“We’re many times covered by medical insurance, which opens up the demographic,” Botham said. “We do get parents who are absolutely wearing a big hat and sunglasses and when they enter the door and they see it’s all their colleagues and see it’s the same kind of person that they are, that’s when they open up.”

Kraft says: “Our clients here are professionals, and they feel comfortable when they run into other professional-type people here.”

Hair Fairies is both notable and deplorable. It’s a wonderful concept – take something that icks people out and give them a 100 percent guarantee you’ll solve the problem. It’s hands-off, a sure thing. That’s also why I think it could be bad for us– it’s the Stepford way to do things. No matter how unpleasant, part of parenting should be to sit on the edge of the bathtub and scrape bugs off a child’s scalp. It tells the child they care enough to do something gross. (Better still if the father can contain his gagging noises at the smell of over-the-counter lice treatments and the mother can still her shivers when she sees a live bug.)

I got lice when I was in sixth grade. (We think it was from wearing hats during a school play. Even now that she knows this is highly unlikely, my mother still insists a traveling theater troupe gave us the bugs. “It was a rogue licing,” she says with great indignation.) When we consulted my aunt, an elementary school teacher well versed in the ways of lice, and I was pronounced bug-positive, I was grasped firmly about the shoulders and pressed into her breast for a big hug. It was the best way to cure my self-loathing. We then spent a month dousing my head in poisonous chemicals. My mother was behind me for the combing but beside me for the experience. And that counted. I remember that.

If I had instead been taken to Hair Fairies, I think I would have felt differently. She would have dropped me off and gone to run some errands. Maybe to meet a friend for lunch. Maybe to hit up a quick yoga class. Either way, she wouldn’t have been there. She wouldn’t have needed to be. I had friendly, cheery Fairies attending to me and some moving images to stare at.

Which is not to say the people that use Hair Fairies are bad parents. They aren’t. And Botham’s not a bad person either. She’s a rich person, or on her way.

“We’re trying to be the Starbucks of head lice removal,” she says. “We’re trying to build an empire here.” Botham is currently opening a store in Seattle and plans to be in all 50 states within five years. “Maybe less.

“When I told all my friends I was going to start this corporation, everyone laughed at me and told me I was nuts. But I really knew in my core that this was something people needed,” Botham says. “Head lice is like getting a cold, that’s how common it is. I knew I could create a brand that was massive.”

I have seen all I need to see at Hair Fairies. I collect my notebook and pen, wave goodbye to the people and bugs I’ve met, and step onto the crowded Lincoln Park street. My skin crawls a bit, but my scalp doesn’t itch. I am very, very glad.

Pork Jumps to 11-Year High

Sunday, 20 December, 2009

This story was published by Bloomberg News on August 1, 2008. Molly interned for Bloomberg News from June to August in 2008 and from January to April in 2009. She covered the commodity markets, livestock derivatives, government bonds and foreign exchange. Molly was hired to the speed desk in March 2009. This is one of her favorite stories. It appeared on TOPWW, Bloomberg’s worldwide front page.

Aug. 1 (Bloomberg) — Pork prices in the U.S. are the highest in at least 11 years, squeezing profits for food companies, as more of the nation’s meat supply is shipped overseas and domestic hog producers shrink their herds.

Wholesale pork jumped 62 percent in the past four months to 88.9 cents a pound today, the highest since at least 1997, U.S. Department of Agriculture data show. Exports of the meat in May doubled from a year earlier as demand surged in China, according to the most recent USDA statistics.

The jump in costs is forcing makers of pork products to raise prices. All-meat hot dogs made from beef and pork by Goldstar Sausage Co. in Denver are up 25 cents a pound since May, and another increase is likely because the high cost of pork is eroding profit, owner Rick Rue said in an interview.

“You have to pass it along if you want to stay in business,” said Todd Purnell, president of F.B. Purnell Sausage Inc. in Simpsonville, Kentucky. “Nobody can stand to lose money for very long.”

U.S. pork exports in May totaled 481.3 million pounds, up 98 percent from 242.7 million pounds in the same month last year, the USDA said July 14. Shipments to China and Hong Kong increased more than sixfold to 137.7 million pounds.

“What’s producing this increase is the global demand for meat products, including China and India and other countries where income growth is stimulating meat demand,” said Ernie Goss, an economics professor and head of the Economic Outlook Center at Omaha, Nebraska-based Creighton University.

Rising Corn Costs

U.S. supplies also may shrink because the high cost of feed grain is forcing hog producers to liquidate their herds. Corn futures are up 74 percent from a year ago and reached a record $7.9925 a bushel on the Chicago Board of Trade on June 27.

“The high corn prices are the number-one contributor,” Purnell said by telephone.

Livestock producers are sending more hogs to be slaughtered and feeding them less to cut costs. U.S. processors will slaughter 2.091 million hogs this week, up 6 percent from 1.973 million a year earlier, the USDA estimates. Hogs sold to slaughterhouses in the Iowa-Southern Minnesota area were 0.9 percent lighter last week than a year earlier, USDA data show.

“You’ve got a demand increase and a supply reduction,” Creighton’s Goss said in a telephone interview. “Both contribute to an increase in prices, and we’re going to see more of that in the months ahead.”

Raising Prices

Some U.S. meat processors and grocers have been unable to raise prices fast enough to keep pace with rising costs.

“It’s impacted us tremendously from a profitability standpoint,” Goldstar’s Rue said in a telephone interview. “We are hoping that we’re seeing the ceiling right now. Normally we get a downtrend in prices and it comes out even. But it’s just been escalating and definitely cutting into our margins.”

At De An’s Pork Products in Brooklyn, New York, owner Guy De Angelis said he raised the price of the company’s Italian sausage about 10 cents a pound to $1.85 on May 26, the Memorial Day holiday, because of higher fuel costs. Another 15-cent increase may be needed to offset the jump in pork costs, he said.

“We try to absorb as much of it as we possibly can, but it’s difficult after awhile,” De Angelis said in a telephone interview. “It’s killing us.”

Culinary Schools Are the Cutting Edge of Popularity, Despite Costs

Sunday, 20 December, 2009

This story was published via The Medill News Service on June 4, 2008. It was written for a class while Molly was attending Northwestern’s Medill School of Journalism.

Five months ago, 27-year-old Latonya Black, a student at Washburne Culinary Institute of Kennedy-King College, realized she wanted “to be surrounded by food all the time.” Black called it “an a-ha moment.”

More and more Americans are having a-ha moments and enrolling in culinary schools across the nation — particularly in Chicago.

The National Center for Education Statistics’ 2007 “Digest of Education Statistics” reported that the number of Americans getting Bachelor’s degrees in the culinary field has skyrocketed.

In 2006, a total of 57 students were awarded degrees in “baking and pastry arts/baker/pastry chef,” up 83 percent from 31 students in 2004, and up 119 percent from 26 students in 2003. A total of 322 students earned degrees in “culinary arts/chef training” in 2006, up 35 percent from 239 in 2004.

A degree is not a necessary ingredient in a chef’s recipe for success. In fact, most chefs – degree or not – are still required to start working as line cooks, busboys or vegetable peelers.

“Just like other Americans, I felt like culinary school was kind of for people who just didn’t know what they wanted to do with their lives, some kind of backburner or you didn’t make it anywhere else, so you went to culinary school,” Black said.

Today, she is learning about cold soups and sauces and is set to graduate in May 2009 with an Associate’s degree in Culinary Arts. Black is ebullient about her experience and is a big proponent of culinary school. (Note: Top Chef fans might recognize Washburne’s kitchen – it was featured on Episode 8 this season.)

“I don’t think it’s necessary to get a degree, but it helps you along the way. It helps you get to the next level and make those strides a little bit faster
 There are people who have been in the industry for 15 years and they’re just having that a-ha moment,” she said.

The a-ha moment is the crystallization of one’s desire to be a chef. Executive Chef Ethan Holmes, 33, described it as a “wild unflinching passion to cook or feed people” and “the absolute love of food and perfection.”

Holmes graduated from the New England Culinary Institute in 2001 and attributes his early success to a combination of the culinary degree and his total commitment to food. He giddily described looking at diver scallops in his Texas restaurant’s freezer.

“I’m back there oohing and aahing
 like, these are the most beautiful scallops
 I feel like I’ve stolen something from someone because they’re so beautiful,” he said.

Many executive chefs describe this commitment – not a degree – as a reason to hire. Still, no one denied the positive effect a degree could have on a chef’s salary.

“I think it’s like any other field, 20 years ago you practically didn’t need an accounting degree to do accounting. But nowadays, the more education you have the more advantages you have in terms of getting a job. When we first started researching the field of culinary, when I talked to chefs and restaurant owners they said, ‘I don’t just want to hire people who can cook, I want to hire people who can think,’” said Nancy Rotunno, the executive director and dean for the Institute of Culinary Arts at Robert Morris College.

Robert Morris will offer its first Bachelor’s degree in culinary arts this fall. They expect to have about 100 students in the program. It has previously offered Associate’s degrees and has about 300-350 students enrolled in those programs. Applications for students starting in the fall at the Chicago campus doubled compared to last year, Rotunno said.

“Quite frankly and pardon the pun, but food is a hot industry right now, and it has been for the last several years, so we’ve had a lot of interest,” she said.

One oft-cited downside of attending culinary school is the price. Holmes paid $51,000 for two years of culinary education.

“It cost me more to go to culinary school than it would have cost to go to law school,” Holmes said.

Chicago’s schools cost an average of $27,000 for one year of education. Washburne costs about $13,000, far below other area institutions, because it’s part of the City Colleges of Chicago. Black has already won a scholarship and hopes to be awarded more money.

The Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago, which has over 800 students, is affiliated with Le Cordon Bleu and is regionally accredited. Tuition for a 15-month program is about $40,000.

Though he was unwilling to reveal enrollment figures, President Lloyd Kirsch said that business was good and that in the last four years, the school has expanded its campus by 20,000 square feet and added five industry-standard kitchens and two classrooms.

Malika Ameen, 33, is the executive pastry chef and co-owner of Aigre Doux. She was born and raised in Glencoe, Ill. but attended culinary school in New York. She estimates she paid about $16,000 for her culinary and pastry arts degrees, but stresses that was in the mid-‘90s and prices have vastly increased since then. She says she would make the same decision again, but that culinary school isn’t the best choice for everyone.

“I don’t think it’s necessary for people to go to culinary school, but I am an advocate of it if you can. It’s very expensive. I don’t think it’s something that’s necessary, but I think it’s helpful in getting practice and learning about basic skills, which are the building blocks and foundations of anything you do.”

Holmes said that despite the increasing cost of getting a culinary degree, he thinks his education has already paid for itself.

“It would take me between another two to three years to [be an executive chef], and I would make about 50 percent what I make right now in that time. I would have no foundation for any sort of negotiation to say, here’s the education I’ve been able to get, this is the experience that I have a result of that, this is the experience I got in addition to that and this is how much I’m worth.”

His diver scallops eventually ended up pan-seared and accompanied by stone-ground polenta, roasted asparagus and a tomato, caper and olive relish.

“I wanted to be a chef since I was 4 and I just never had the gumption to do it. Finally I was like, ‘I’m sick of being sick and tired. I’m going to be a chef,’” he said. “Now I’m just tired all the time, but I’m happy.”

To Wheat or Not to Wheat

Sunday, 20 December, 2009

This story was published via The Medill News Service on June 2, 2008. It was written for a class while Molly was attending Northwestern’s Medill School of Journalism.

Americans are gluttons for gluten. Found naturally in wheat, barley and rye, we use the grain protein in everything from pet food to toothpaste to soy sauce. Even communion wafers.

And 1 percent of the population can’t eat it.

According to the University of Chicago Celiac Disease Center, more than 3 million Americans suffer from Celiac disease – an autoimmune disorder that results in gluten intolerance. The only treatment is life-long avoidance of wheat, barley or any substances that contain it.

Margot Chapman is co-owner of Lincoln Park’s Swirlz Cupcakes, a subsidiary of Four Unlikely Friends LLC. She was diagnosed with Celiac disease five years ago and insisted that gluten-free cupcakes be on the Swirlz menu every day.

Chapman also owns a marketing company and has developed products for Fortune 500 companies, including Kellog Co. and Pepsico Inc.’s Quaker Oats and Frito-Lay.

“I’ve done a lot of work in grains,” she said. “I’m called the ‘Queen of Grains.’ I’ve developed grain products for cereal and bread and cookies and cake.” She says she was shocked when she was diagnosed as gluten-intolerant.

Swirlz’s gluten-free goodies cost the same as the traditional options – $3 per cupcake – and Chapman said they’ve been a success because the bakery uses a special blend of flours to create a taste and texture similar to a normal cupcake.

“Wheat, which is what you would normally bake with, has a lot of elasticity, which makes bread and cookies taste yummy. So when you take it out of a product, and you try to create something that tastes yummy and delicious, it’s really a challenge,” she said. “It’s not just a matter of taking something out, it’s what do you put in to create the taste and texture that doesn’t taste fringe and odd and strange.”

The Nielson Co. reports that revenues from items labeled gluten-free have soared almost 20 percent in the past year to $1.7 billion from $1.4 billion in May 2007. Sales have increased 74 percent compared with 2004. Some items, like gluten-free gum and pet food, only entered the market in 2008.

The first mainstream food supplier to embrace gluten-free products was General Mills Inc. Last month, the world’s sixth-largest food company announced that its Rice Chex breakfast cereal is now gluten-free.

Conventional grocery stores are stocking more gluten-free products, though truly tasty options can be elusive. Many Celiac sufferers cited Whole Foods Market IP LP and Trader Joe’s Co. as putting more options on their plates, but gluten-free food continues to be more expensive.

“It takes a bit of doing to learn what’s out there, and then it takes awhile to sample all the different kinds, but there’s much more today than there was 20 years ago,” said Claudia Franz, president of the Celiac Sprue Association of Greater Chicago.

So with grain prices still rising, does it make fiscal sense to adopt a gluten-free diet?

Maybe. As grain becomes more expensive, so will its dependent products. The United States Department of Agriculture reported that the April 2008 average price of U.S. wheat was $371 per metric ton, double the $180 per metric ton average wheat price in April 2007.

Gluten is an element in thousands of frequently used food products, so paring it from your diet could help cut costs.

And yet, gluten-free items remain more costly than wheat products and show little sign of dropping in price, despite growing interest and increasing need.

For example, the number of people eating gluten-free diets may be larger than the number of Celiac sufferers. Because of the intensity of the intolerance, separate ovens, toasters and other appliances can be needed to reduce contamination. So, many families of sufferers lead gluten-less lives as well.

Chapman said the bakery has been hit hard by rising egg and butter prices, but the cost of baking with wheat and their special blend of gluten-free flours has remained about the same.

“They’re probably comparable given the price of wheat and given the price of buying a number of ingredients to blend them into one thing,” she said.
Franz expressed hope and doubt that the price of gluten-free food will drop dramatically.

“As more and more people here are diagnosed [with Celiac], I think the volume of purchases will go up, and then I would hope food prices would come down. You can go as high as $8 for a loaf of gluten-free bread, depending on what you buy,” Franz said. “I don’t see it coming down in the near future, but I hope it does before I die.”

Emptying Wallets to Fill Their Bellies

Sunday, 20 December, 2009

This story was published via The Medill News Service on May 13, 2008. It was written for a class while Molly was attending Northwestern’s Medill School of Journalism.

Gatorade
Commercials for sports drinks, apparel and supplements celebrate the price athletes pay to achieve superior fitness levels. But as meat and dairy costs escalate, what’s the price athletes pay
 for food?

Joel Belding, a Northwestern University football player, spends about $5,400 on food per year; the United States Department of Agriculture reported the average American spent $3,760 on food in 2007. A senior offensive lineman, Belding eats a carefully balanced diet that is guided by the team nutritionist.

“When I go to the store I always try to find the cheapest stuff,” he said. “But even in the last two years
 I’ve noticed that things like lunch meat have gone up quite a bit in price. It seems a little out of control.”

College and professional athletes represent a small segment of the population, but one that’s hit much harder by rising food prices.

The U.S. Consumer Price Index released Wednesday showed that food prices in April were almost 1 percent higher than in March, and more than 5 percent higher than in April 2007.

The products that have seen the biggest increase in cost are fats and oils – up 12 percent from a year ago. The cost of fruits, vegetables and dairy products have also increased dramatically.

Athletes take in more calories per day than the typical American, and they consume products that tend to be costlier, like proteins, extra calcium and fresh produce.

“On the Chicago Blackhawks training table, we have 100 percent grass-fed beef. Whenever we can, we feed them the premium proteins, because protein is so very important to the athletes’ diet. But it also tends to be very expensive,” said Julie Burns, M.S. R.D. C.C.N., owner of Eat Like the Pros LLC, a Chicagoland meal delivery and nutrition consulting service.

Burns is the team nutritionist for the Chicago Blackhawks, the Chicago White Sox and several Olympic athletes. She has previously consulted with the Chicago Bears, the Chicago Bulls and varsity athletes from Northwestern University.

“The ideal diet would be a really clean diet, none of the added hormones, pesticides, chemicals,” she said. “It really helps them do their job better.”

Victoria Shanta Retelny, R.D. L.D., is the owner of Chicago-based Living Well Communications, a nutrition consulting practice. She estimated that if the typical grocery bill for one person is $80, similar to the USDA’s figures, an athlete would pay about $140, or not quite double.

“If you’re looking for organic produce and grass-fed cattle, you have to go to specialty stores to get many of those types of foods, so you may look at higher costs,” she said.

Because protein helps build muscles, nutritionists and dietitians recommend it, particularly in its premium-priced, organic form. Some also highlight the importance of textured vegetable protein or soy products, such as BocaÂź Burgers.

None of which is cheap.

The Chicago Blackhawks’ 22 players travel for some of their games. Eating on the road can be pricey – the team spends a minimum of $3,916 on food during two days of traveling.

That means 22 athletes are spending in two days what the average American spends in one year for food.

The athletes are hungry for wins, but they may also be just hungry. The typical American is advised to eat about 2,000 calories a day. Burns said some Blackhawks players are advised to eat 3,000 calories, while others down 5,000 or more per day. Retelny estimated that pro athletes’ diets can go as high as 6,000 calories per day.

An athlete’s recommended intake ranges by sport, position, gender and training needs. Males generally consume more calories than females because they have more muscle mass.

Level of activity is also a factor – a goalie usually burns fewer calories than a speedy forward. Rookies and college athletes are advised to pack on the pounds because they tend to be smaller and lighter than the older, pro competitors.

“Typically a college athlete is going to take in between 3,000 and 5,000 calories per day,” Retelny said.

And what is double the average person’s intake is peanuts to athletes.

“Lance Armstrong used to take in 10,000 calories a day,” Retelny said, referring to the legendary Tour de France regimens for super-elite cyclists.

Wrestlers often have a different relationship to food than other athletes because they have to make weight. But even lightweight wrestlers consume at least a third more calories per day than the typical American.

“I would say if they’re in the middle of their season and practicing, they need at least 3,000 calories a day,” said Leo Kocher, head wrestling coach and associate professor of physical education and athletics at the University of Chicago. “When I say 3,000 calories I’m thinking the minimum for a small guy, and when you’re talking heavyweights, I imagine you’re at 4,500 to 5,000 calories,” Kocher added.

Vitamins, supplements and sports drinks also rack up costs. “It’s hard to predict, but
 [athletes spend] probably $35 or $40 a week just on drinks, because they require more fluid than the average person,” Retelny said.

So how can an athlete cut costs?

“If you’re shopping locally and going to your local farmer and trying to look at your local butcher and possibly befriending some of these people, you can get better prices. There is such a thing as bargaining for your food,” Retelny said.

Emptying your wallet to fill your belly is a problem not likely to be solved for athletes or the world’s population. Increasing food prices make it harder to eat quality proteins and fresh produce. Are strict, high-maintenance eating plans really necessary?

“I think there’s more variance in human bodies and what works best for people than even the nutritionists and dietitians and exercise physiologists realize,” Kocher said.

And that’s something to chew on.

Grocery Bag

Chicagoans Hungry for Books About Food

Sunday, 20 December, 2009

This story was published via The Medill News Service on April 28, 2008. It was written for a class while Molly was attending Northwestern’s Medill School of Journalism.

Bookstack

Loaves and popovers grow lofty and puffy because yeast feeds on sugar and releases carbon dioxide. These rising breads are causing something else to rise — the popularity of food books.

In the past decade, interest in food books has skyrocketed for Chicago’s publishers, libraries and bookstores.

“If an editor wants to make a little extra cash, a good way to do that is to publish a food book,” said Susan Bielstein, executive editor at the University of Chicago Press. “I think people love to eat. I think people are interested, they want to know more about what they put in their mouths,” she added.

Nielsen BookScan, part of Nielsen Book Services Ltd., counts the total units of books sold yearly. In 2007, there were over 13.9 billion “cooking/entertaining” books sold nationwide, up 12 percent from 12.5 billion in 2004. The highest year recorded was 2006, when approximately 15 billion food books left the shelves.

“It’s a hot topic. Everybody loves cooking books,” said Katherine Behan, a manager at Myopic Books in Wicker Park, which stocks 1,333 food books.

Food Network Television, owned by Scripps Networks LLC, premiered in 1997, and the arrival of celebrity chefs like Rachael Ray, Emeril Lagasse and Anthony Bourdain has undoubtedly fanned the flames of Americans’ interest in food.

The oft-made crossover from recipe books to merchandise, spices, kitchenware and so on has fostered a whole food culture. We’ve become a nation of noshers with serious loyalties.

Consequently, bread dough is leading to money dough. Food Network’s Rachael Ray and Paula Deen were credited in the 2007 Books-A-Million Inc. annual report with dominating sales in the cookbook category.

R.R. Bowker LLC tracks ISBNs and bibliographic information. According to its Books in Print Database, 3,044 new cooking titles were released in 2007, up 53 percent from 2002, which was the lowest year in a decade. The number of new cooking titles is up 27 compared with 1996.

Much like describing a flavor or scent, the category of food books is hard to define. It might include recipe books, celebrity chef biographies and memoirs, gastronomy, environmentally sensitive cuisine, wine, food travel books, or food histories like those published by the University of Chicago Press.

It’s easier to make a soufflĂ© than get an accurate estimate of food book revenues. Most booksellers said they do not record sales by genre. The number of food titles stocked in their stores, however, has shown a definite rise.

“Cookbooks is a very strong category for us,” said Carolyn Brown, director of Corporate Communications at Barnes & Noble Inc.

Jeffrey Burakowski, general manager at Chicago’s only Books-A-Million store, said he’s seen a dramatic increase in attention paid to food books, particularly in the way the section is organized.

“I’ve been in the book business for 13 or 14 years,” he said, “and food writing was never something we had a specific category for” until now. He also noted the presence of familiar faces. “The thing with celebrity chefs is that we always had the celebrities right next to people that didn’t really have a name, and now we have a specific section just for chefs
 as they have their own shows they start writing not so much recipes, but more food stories,” he said.

Bielstein points out that stories about food are an important part of society: “You can get the pulse of an entire civilization by looking at its food,” she said. The University of Chicago Press has between 10 and 15 food books in print now; a decade ago they had about five.

Food-oriented magazines are gaining popularity as well. CondĂ© Nast Publications’ Bon AppĂ©tit showed a 19 percent increase in circulation in Illinois from Dec. 1997 to Dec. 2007, to 57,742 copies sold from 48,497. Its national circulation jumped 28 percent during the same period.

Gourmet, also owned by Condé Nast, has seen its circulation rise to 957,136 copies sold nationwide in 2007, up 7 percent from 891,797 in 1998.

The Publishers Information Bureau, part of Magazine Publishers of America, reports on magazine and advertising trends. In the first quarter of 2008, advertising categorized as “food and food products” increased 29 percent, to $568 million from $440 million in the year-earlier period.

The PIB also reported that in 2006, 12 new magazines in the epicurean category were launched. In 2007, food and nutrition was the fifth-most popular subject category in magazines. The number of editorial pages devoted to food and nutrition was over 14,000, up 7.4 percent from the year before. (Top categories included celebrity, apparel and home management.)

Borders Inc., which currently stocks about 2,000 food books per store, is in the process of spicing up its food sections with concept stores called “Cooking Destinations.” Fourteen concept stores will be built in 2008, none in Chicago.

Kolleen O’Meara, a representative for Borders, said the concept “combines cooking books, DVDs and products such as recipe holders; eventually we’ll have cooking utensils, hot pads, things like that, as well as Borders TV which runs cooking specials, tips and interviews with celebrity chefs.”

Last month for the first time, The Newberry Library hosted a food-oriented book seminar. It plans to do more such events in the future.

“Part of [this popularity] is things like Food Network and frankly, Martha Stewart and that whole domestic movement,” said Riva Feshbach, Newberry Library’s exhibits manager, who is seeing more interest in food books.

Gapers Block, a local events and blogging Web site, launched its food blog a year ago. Drive-Thru is dedicated to the Chicago food scene and includes hot trends, restaurant openings and closings and user comments. It’s the site’s most popular blog.

“Because there was so much interest in Chicago restaurants and dining out and Chicago has such a dynamic food scene in general, between the restaurants and ethnic groceries, specialty food stores etc., there was enough to cover that we could devote an entire section to it,” said Editor and Publisher Andrew Huff. Drive-Thru generates about 5,000 visits per week.

“It doesn’t seem like it’s a trend that’s going to slow down any time soon,” Huff said.

After all, eating is as American as apple pie.